Buying

Buying a second-hand EV in Australia: the checks that actually matter

Battery health, warranty transfer, charging kit and the $2 search that can save you the whole car. A practical checklist for used electric vehicles in Australia.

Last updated 18 August 2026 · 7 min read

A used EV is mechanically simpler than a used petrol car — no timing belt, no clutch, no exhaust, far fewer moving parts to wear out. That simplicity hides the fact that one component carries most of the value, and it is the one you cannot see. Here is what to actually check.

1. Battery state of health, not just range

Advertised range is a laboratory figure from when the car was new. What you want is state of health (SoH) — the battery's current usable capacity as a percentage of its original capacity. Most EVs will show it in a service menu, and a third-party diagnostic tool can read it from the car's systems in a few minutes.

As a rough guide, a modern EV losing 1–2% capacity a year is normal. Anything showing a sharp drop, or a seller who will not let you get it read, is worth walking away from. Ask how the car was usually charged: a car that lived on DC fast chargers at 100% every night has had a harder life than one trickle-charged to 80% at home.

2. What is left of the battery warranty

Most manufacturers warrant the traction battery separately from the rest of the car — commonly eight years, often with a minimum capacity threshold such as 70%. That warranty usually transfers to you as the next owner, and it is frequently the most valuable thing you are buying.

Get the build date, not just the compliance or registration date, and confirm the transfer conditions with the manufacturer rather than taking the seller's word for it. Some warranties require servicing to have been done on schedule.

3. The charging kit that should come with it

Cables get separated from cars surprisingly often, and replacing them is not cheap. Check you are getting the portable AC charging cable, any Type 2 cable for public AC charging, and any adapters the car shipped with. If the seller has a wall box installed, ask whether it is included and whether it can legally be moved by an electrician.

4. Run a PPSR search before you pay anything

This is the cheapest insurance in the entire process. A Personal Property Securities Register search costs about $2 and tells you whether there is finance owing on the vehicle. If you buy a car with money owing on it and you did not search, the financier can repossess it from your driveway — and you have no recourse except chasing the seller. The same search flags written-off and reported-stolen status.

5. State paperwork

What the seller must give you depends on where the sale happens. In Queensland a safety certificate is required and its number has to appear in the advertisement. In Victoria you need a roadworthy certificate, valid for 30 days. The ACT and Northern Territory require inspections for older vehicles. New South Wales, South Australia, Western Australia and Tasmania generally do not require an inspection for a private sale of a registered light vehicle.

Whichever state you are in, the seller must lodge a notice of disposal and you must transfer the registration — usually within 14 days.

6. The boring stuff still applies

  • Tyres. EVs are heavy and torquey, and they eat tyres. Four new tyres is a four-figure line item on a lot of models.
  • Brakes. Regenerative braking means the friction brakes get used lightly and can seize or corrode from disuse. Look for scoring and rust on the discs.
  • Service history. Fewer services than a petrol car, but coolant loops, cabin filters and brake fluid still matter.
  • Software. Ask whether the car is up to date, and whether any features were subscription-based and will follow the car or the previous owner's account.

7. Know what protections you actually have

Buying from a dealer, the Australian Consumer Law guarantees apply in full and cannot be signed away. Buying privately, most of those guarantees do not apply and there is no cooling-off period — but the seller must still have clear title, must be able to give you undisturbed possession, and must disclose any money owing. Fraud is fraud in either case.

Take the time to inspect, get the battery read, and do the $2 search. The rest is just a car.

This is general information, not advice about your particular situation — and rules change. Check the current position with the relevant authority before you rely on it.

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